Note: This post was originally published on June 24th, 2013.
More than a thousand feet above the ground, I leaned over the edge of the great castle-fort wall, and a mist unlike any other coated my cheek. Seconds later, a cool breeze became a natural drying agent, chilling my skin. Beauty in nature is an exceptional thing, something which can be neither replicated nor surpassed. Complexity and simplicity intersect in nature, to reveal a great treasure. This past weekend, on Sunday, in fact, I had the unique opportunity to climb Sinhagad Fort literally, The Lion’s Fort, a trekking destination in Pune that rises more than 4000 feet above sea level, and where thousands of locals and foreigners travel each week. In a simple word, the experience was invaluable.
Sinhagad is a unique Pune sight, both historically and for trekking-enthusiasts (and beginners like me!). It is not only a significant as a historical landmark in Maharashtra, but also the site of the Battle of Sinhagad in 1670. Shivaji Maharaj, a famous ruler from the Maratha clan, recaptured it in 1656. Fun Fact: Sinhagad was initially known as Kondhana Fort.
Traveling to Sinhagad
This is where we were headed Sunday morning. Our adventure began at 5:30 AM, when I awoke to the sound of my older cousin’s voice. (I visited my cousin and aunt/uncle in Kothrud this weekend). Groggily, I woke, got ready, and met his two friends on the first floor. Initially, we decided we would search for a red bus, which, according to my cousin, would take us directly to the historical site. We headed left after leaving my cousin’s flat’s parking lot. After about 10 minutes of walking, we decided that the bus- despite our hopes- had probably already left, so we began searching for a six-seater. To our dismay, the bus passed us less than 10 minutes later.
Regardless, six-seater-autos are probably one of my favorite forms of transportation in India. They are large rickshaw/autos, which technically, are supposed to seat 6 individuals (go figure!). Needless to say, in India, the population is so large, that you can expect it to be crowded nearly everywhere. Hence, it is no surprise then, that the 6-seater we found, actually seated 8+ individuals. In fact, when we finally reached the 6-seater, the middle seat was already filled with 3 individuals, and someone had even occupied the tiny space near the driver. Thankfully, as one individual got off at the next stop, my cousin quickly occupied his seat. Meanwhile, me and my cousin’s two friends climbed into the back seat (literally, this was the trunk with two boards lining the sides as the seats). The ride there was pleasant enough- I actually enjoyed the bumpy ride, as I sat on the wooden board, less than three feet away from my neighbor, also crouched on the opposite board. I’m sure my cousin and his two friends obviously didn’t feel the same sense of adventure I felt since it was really nothing new for them.
The trip to Sinhagad took less than a half hour, and most surprising of all, the cost was a mere 30 rupees per person! Quite a bargain!
When we finally arrived at the fort, we stopped for tea and took some pictures at the foot of the hills. When I first caught sight of the scene, I was breathless. Lush green fields rolled against the backdrop of majestic mountains. When I looked closely at the mountains, I could spot small figures upon the slopes: people, I guessed.
We continued our photoshoot for another five minutes, and then began walking towards the foot of the hills. I could see a line of cars lining the side of the street as we made our way. Sundays during the monsoon season are the busiest at Sinhagad, but for good reason- the views are truly spectacular!
Commencing the Climb
Once we began the climb, the actual hike took about 1.5 hours, including all of our halts en-route. Since I was obviously not as fit as my cousin and his friends, I felt that I was always at the tail end of the group. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the trek perhaps most genuinely.
Trekking is clearly a common and popular pastime for “Puneri’s” (Pune residents). As early as 7:30 AM, the fort was covered with individuals, of all ages, castes and cultures. I was surprised to find that one woman, clearly a vegetable seller, was climbing while carrying a basket filled with vegetables and other items. The sun danced across the sky, over the next hour, as the three of us made our way through the altitude, climbing higher. With each step, I felt even more energized, more enthusiastic. Even though I was slowly being drained of energy, an equal vigor seemed to empower me, too. Less than 45 minutes into our trek, we stopped for a “lemonade break”. The unique thing about trekking in India, at least in Pune, is that food is readily available on the way- in other words, it’s impossible to starve, even while exercising! The cool drink was the perfect refresher, and when all three us had finished our beverages, we resumed the hike.
I’ve been to Sinhagad a number of times throughout my childhood, but each visit, I feel like I’m enjoying a new sight. I guess that’s the unique and beautiful part of nature- it’s always different, new and exciting. The rest of the trek seemed to go faster- not sure if I began gaining speed or if my cousin and his friends slowed down for me (probably the latter). Every few steps, I would take a second to look back and catch a glimpse of the skies, mountains and mist, as if to reward myself for making it this far with a visual treat. It really is better to take the time to truly enjoy the journey, rather than racing to the finish. Gradually, the trail began to steepen, and I took fewer glances backward. Finally, when I thought that I couldn’t take another step, we began seeing signs. I read one, “Pune Darvaza, or Door” The gate was the first sign of an achievement- climbing to the top of the great fort, Sinhagad, and upon seeing it, I felt a wave of real excitement.
Taking a Break at the Summit for Bhaji & Dahi
Once we had all reached the top, we enjoyed some yogurt and bhaji, a classic food available at Sinhagad. Bhaji is basically fried onions, adorned in various spices, and coated in flour, and the entire dish is deep fried in oil once again. These foods are a regular at the top of Sinhagad, and people have come to expect the treat, as a reward to climb to the peak. After we had all had our fill of the delicious, regional food, we explored the area and took more snaps. We saw Kalyan Darvaza, the other doorway at Sinhagad. One trail that we followed, led, according to my cousin, to a part of Mumbai, if we kept following it!
Breathtaking Views & Reflections
The view from one point was utterly and completely breathtaking. Taking one look down, and one will see a great depth, rolling hills and beautiful hues of evergreen; shades of navy paint the skies, and the mist gently drapes the already spectacular panorama. I could probably have remained there all day, simply losing myself in that picturesque scene. Nothing in life seems so clear, so beautiful, and so perfect, than that moment as I took in the colors and trees, mist and mountains in that scene atop Sinhagad.
Overall, trekking on Sinhagad with my cousin and his friends was a lot of fun and a great adventure. This is one of those places you will never tire of visiting. It was really bhari (awesome). Plus it was great exercise! It was also the first time I’ve climbed the entire fort! (there’s also a car route, which I’d taken on a previous family trip to India).
Until later! 🙂 <3
